J. Phil Thien's Projects

http://www.researchgate.net/profile/MZ_Abdullah/publication/267700921_APPLICATION_OF_DESWIRL_DEVICE_IN_CYCLONE_DUST_SEPARATOR/links/54b1ff2a0cf28ebe92e1916e.pdf

im not sure if this is the same article but i think it might be   

i would not want a push system cuz stuff is still hitting the impeller. the reason i went to the tophat was i once sucked up a baby food bottle full of sanding sealer mix. it shattered when it hit the impeller. since then a few scotchbrite pads and a few pieces of sandpaper have been sucked up but they stayed in my tophat or fell into trash can below tophat. now imagine if a chunk of wood gets sucked up and gets wedged in impeller housing.

i can see the dado or groove. what i mean is something like a mortice and a tenon on the vane

oops i meant stop. im just thinking a pocket to trap the vane would lock it in place better. but it sounds like your gonna run screws up into the vanes. make sure you scuff up the surface to get a good bond

just wondering why u never used stooped dadoes due to the force and getting a good glue bond

so are you gonna go with the husky or make your own trash can

phil how much does static play in that dust hugging the sides of tube

i got mine thru penstate ind. its spun steel. i took my off within the first week because it didnt fit my pipes and i had to turn an adapter out of wood. since im no rocket scientist and dont have any real fancy equipment to test my setup except what i can see with my eyeballs i could see more bypass from my lathe sanding and my drum sander. and as i have said before in 3yrs i have less than a quart of fine dust in my bag on the bottom of the 50-850 ring. also my center outlet pipe does not extend into the chamber as far as what everybody else does. 
od= 9.5"      (9 1/2" )
id=  4.75"      (4 3/4")
ht=  2.625"    (2 5/8")

http://www.jpthien.com/cy.htm

this is the first one you should have read this

well after watching the dust in my can i can see it swirling around circumference down to the bottom. i like retired2 half a dowel idea maybe it could be steamed into shape   

looked at brute cans (rubbermaid) and they come in white
  http://www.rubbermaidcommercial.com/rcp/products/detail.jsp?rcpNum=2632
they have changed their style (dont like it) but their still 22 dia, dont know price but for the husky 20.49 price it might be worth a shot. if i had to i could plug the groove for the brute and recut it for the husky. add a small backlight outside of can and let the chips fly

sure wish brute made a translucent one it would solve alot of greef.

yep i know about windows but now im thinking i could put in 2 windows around 3/4 full and shoot the beam through windows. then i dont have to worry about swirling dust and i can even just keep an eye on dust. and im thinking installing a blinking xmas light instead of controlling the motor since it draws so much amps on start up even though its 220 and the amazon box is rated at 10a 

did a quick look at amazon,ebay and some diy sites. most seem to work off mass so planer shavings are more a volume problem compared to table saw or drum sander dust. cant find out a lot of info on circuits.
with my setup i would have to place a sensor under bottom of can and relay on deflection of bottom to trigger sensor otherwise i could preload sensor when i jack up can. that would make sliding heavy can off support difficult. this is why im leaning toward a photo eye. if i keep eye in air stream that should keep it clean but with the one i posted i think i would still need a window so sensor would sense light change or install an led diode infront of sensor so when dust builds up it would block light and trigger sensor.     
anyway i look at i think a window on side of can is the best way   

oh wow . just did a quick search on load cells, big bucks. guess ill go with a window on side of can