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Messages - tvman44

#61
Thien Cyclone Separator Lid Discussion / Re: suction loss
February 14, 2014, 09:07:29 AM
Phil, I am trying to remember has most of your work been with the top hat design or in the barrel type separators? :)
#62
Bulldog8, how wide is your slot?  I am thinking about a 3/4" wide slot.
#63
Those are some beautiful buckets, where in the world do you find them.
#64
I don't know anything flow about straighteners, maybe some of the engineers on here can answer that.  As for turning the blower sideways I have seen many pictures of set ups that did just that.  It would definitely put a different kind of load on the bearings, if that is a bad thing I am no engineer. :)
#65
Instead of a elbow, use 2 45 degree bends.  Less restriction.
#66
No experience here but common sense tells me 8" x 2" would be a much better choice and is what I am planning to do whenever I get around to building a top hat.  :)
#67
Can't wait to see pictures!  :)
#68
I for one would love to see that.  :)
#69
Do you think I would be better off with a 1/4" baffle instead of the 1/8" if I chamfer the 1/4"?
#70
Ok, thanks for the tip.  I could make the slot in the 3/4" even bigger but will 45 either way.  How far back is your stiffener?
#71
Thanks, but you also have some 3/4" under the baffle?
What I am thinking about doing is to make a top-hat and thinking about using 3/4" plywood for the top and bottom and cutting the slot in the bottom larger (like 280 degrees and 2"wide) then putting a piece of 1/8" hardboard over the bottom and cutting the proper size slot in the hard board (240 degrees and 3/4" wide) for very fine dust from my scroll saw.  My reason for wanting to do like this is to use the 3/4" to support the 1/8" so it does not sag, I would glue the 1/8" to the 3/4".  By making the slot in the 3/4 larger than the slot in the 1/8" my thinking is I will get the support I want for the 1/8" without the thickness of the 3/4" effecting the separation (slot will only be 1/8" thick.   Also I would be able to route a slot underneath the bottom 3/4" to seal to the barrel.  Is my thinking flawed or do you'll think this should work good?  Also I plan to use Formica for the side walls since I have it already, I would use the slick top side for the inside of the wall?
#72
retired2, where did you put your support rod?  I too have doubts a support rod would have a lot of impact since the 2 in the barrel separators each have 3 support rods to hold the baffle.

Quote from: revwarguy on January 08, 2014, 08:34:57 AM
I agree with just about everything retired2 said in his 1st post on this thread.  Until there is a way to actually measure "better separation of fines," most of those enhancements based on it are just unknown, and a slight improvement at best.

I would beg to differ, with utmost respect to retired2, about the transparent sides, though - I think it is an advantage to be able to see if anything is clogging inside, and, well, I just love looking at the swirl.  Maybe that's not worth the expense to some (it didn't cost me anything as I had the stuff already) but I would have paid for the plastic sheet anyway.  Just don't use plexiglass (acrylic) as it will be an exercise in frustration.  My Lowe's carries Lexan and you can find it at sign makers or online.  You don't have to get one long, narrow piece - the walls can be done in sections.  Since you are going to seal the walls in place, you don't need to screw into it, either - it just has to be cut with a tight enough fit to stay in place until the caulk sets up.

Having a transparent wall on the inside of the separator has shown me that with about 1 year's use, there is NO wear, scratching, or dulling of the window from the dust against the material, and I believe that worrying about the walls wearing down is unnecessary.  I have only been collecting sawdust however, not cleaning up after sandblasting equipment.  In that case, you should probably worry more about your hose.

Retired2 is right, though - just doing a basic one will get you very close and one you will be happy with every time you look in your bin.
#73
I want to make a top-hat and thinking about using 3/4" plywood for the top and bottom and cutting the slot in the bottom larger (like 280 degrees and 2"wide) then putting a piece of 1/8" hardboard over the bottom and cutting the proper size slot in the hard board (240 degrees and 3/4" wide) for very fine dust from my scroll saw.  My reason for wanting to do like this is to use the 3/4" to support the 1/8" so it does not sag, I would glue the 1/8" to the 3/4".  By making the slot in the 3/4 larger than the slot in the 1/8" my thinking is I will get the support I want for the 1/8" without the thickness of the 3/4" effecting the separation (slot will only be 1/8" thick.   Also I would be able to route a slot underneath the bottom 3/4" to seal to the barrel.  Is my thinking flawed or do you'll think this should work good?  Also I plan to use Formica for the side walls since I have it already, I would use the slick top side for the inside of the wall?  8)
#74
My mini HF DC vents outside. :)
#75
Never tried the Formica yet myself but fully intend to as I have some Formica on hand, but it may be awhile before I get around to it.  If you try it before I do, please report back your results and I will do the same.  8)  I have made a couple of top feed separators in the barrel but anxious to try a top hat when ever I get a chance.  This time of year we do a lot of camping so it will be awhile before I get to it.  8)