J. Phil Thien's Projects

Thanks,
Yea I've been thinking that I would use dowels instead, the more I think about the threaded rods approach. I'll just use my angle finder and cut accordingly.
Thanks for the help and the tremendous baffle idea. Can't wait to put it all together and give it a try.
BD

thanks for the info...I think I will play around with it before making it permanent to see if there is any advantage to beginning, middle or end of the 120 degrees.
On an earlier post you explained how to add the baffle after installing the canister filter. I plan to use threaded rods as well (that's what I have on hand). Since the center ring seems to angle downward toward the plastic bag, did you do anything special so that when the rods are attached, they would point straight down and not angled outward? I could see that if they don't come straight down, then putting the Thien baffle on might not go smoothly.

bennybmn:
I guess I didn't do a good job explaining my question. I understood that the discharge should land on the 120 degree section...my real question is...as the material enters the separator ring (lets assume from left to right), should the beginning of the left side of the 120 degree section (of the baffle) be set just below the discharge chute so that most of the 120 degree section is to the right of the discharge chute? Or should the 120 degree section be positioned so that the discharge chute is approximately in the middle of the 120 degree section? Or does it really matter as long as the 120 degree section of the baffle is anywhere under the discharge chute?
Whew...I'm not sure I understood what I just said.

DB
Thanks...your answer was so obvious...it was one of those "now why didn't I think of that" moment.
On the baffle alignment...how far below the opening on the center ring did you place the baffle?
Is there any trick to the placement of the baffle over the inlet hole to get the most efficient use. In other words, should the 120 degree section of the baffle be placed with the inlet hole just over the beginning of this section, in the middle or end of the 120 degree section of the baffle.
Since the center ring seems to angle downward to the plastic bag, did you do anything special so that when the rods are attached, they would point straight down and not angled inward?
Lastly...have you noticed any dust build up at the standoffs when using threaded rods? If so do you think it would help to have the rods sheathed with some tubing?

dbhost:
I have (just purchased) the HF 2hp 20amp DC and plan to install the Thien baffle. Looking at the Wyn site, it says that you need to install their canister filter from the inside with hold down clamps. How do you do that AND install the baffle? It seems that if I install the baffle first then I can not get to the hold down clamps for the canister filter or if I install the canister first, I don't see how I can get to the baffle to install it???
What am I missing here?

Greg:
I have to admit that I still chuckle when I turn it on.
Although, I just bought the HF DC, so my jerry-rigged setup will be disassembled this weekend.
Thanks for all the good info.

bennybmn
Thanks for the additional explanation. I kinda understood what Greg said in his second explanation, yours just made it crystal clear.
I guess the bottom line is, if Greg's DC system markedly improved its suction power after increasing the trunk line to 6" and then branched off  to smaller diameters at the tools, then it was a total success and a great ingenious modification.
On another subject...I read in several posts that adding a "neutral vane" inside the HF separator ring improved air flow http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=145.0  Any thoughts on that?

Thanks for the info.
I had already purchased a 1 micron shaker felt bag from Rockler about a 2 years ago and was using it in a jerry-rigged setup. I'm almost embarrass to admit what I did to build a home made dust collector, that actually worked reasonably well. I love improvising and that is why I liked what you did.
Well here goes...try not to laugh to much...I had an old 1 hp electric leaf blower so I attached it to the bottom of a clear plastic storage container by cutting out a hole to fit the blower. This container fit the shaker bag very snug with bungee cords. I hung the shaker bag from the ceiling. Then I ran my flex hose from the intake (made mods to accept the hose) and ran it to a 5 gallon can separator (Rockler again) then to my Craftsman table saw and Delta miter saw (with blast gates). Believe it or not this "poor man's" DC worked. I know it isn't going to be as good as the professionally made DC's that I am buying, but it did reduce a lot of the dust.  As a side benefit most of the fine dust that did make it to the bag filter would settle in the clear plastic container, so that after a 2 years of use the bag had virtually no cake on the walls.
OK you can laugh...I do every time I look at my setup.

Oh, I think I'm starting to get your point...especially if I plan to branch off of the main pipe to 2 different places on the table saw (which I will do). In that example, I certainly can see using a 6" that you then branch off to two 4" pipes. Doing that would certainly improve the suction of the two smaller pipes. Got it.  Thanks for the better understanding.
As far as Bill Penz's site...I am slowly getting through it. I must say that his info can certainly scare the begeebees out of you, on health issues. Which was the reason for me upgrading my entire dust collection system. I got two 1/2 hp furnace blowers complete with motor, squirrel cage, housing and start capacitors. I plan to make an air scrubber out of one and thought I would use the other in a dust collection setup. I realized that the furnace motor and blower would not be good as a dust collector so plan to sell it and get the HF 2hp DC. I've heard reasonably good things about this unit. It is on sale right now. By the way, didn't you say that your setup is a HF? Is it the same motor?

Greg:
Thanks for clearing some of my questions up. I marvel at your ingenuity in your DC setup.
But one point is still bugging me.
In your explanation to me about going to a smaller pipe from a larger pipe, you said...
Have you ever used a shop vac with the 1.25 hose and then use the 2.25 hose and notice the difference in the amount of airflow?
I agree...using a larger hose allows more air to move, as long as the hose is the same diameter all the way. My question deals with dropping down to a smaller opening from a larger opening. For example...in your example above...yes the larger 2.25" hose will pull more air, but what if I put a 1.25" coupling at the end of it. Wouldn't you see approximately the same air flow as you would, had you just used the 1.25" hose?  Aren't you creating a restriction in the airflow that will negate the larger diameter hoses benefits? Likewise, when you take a 6" hose and drop it down to 4" or even smaller, at the tool, logic tells me that you will be reducing the air flow that a normal 6" pipe would provide to the airflow that a 4" pipe would provide. So what is the advantage in using the 6" pipe unless you can keep it at 6" all the way to the tool?
I'm really not trying to be argumentative...I really am interested in learning. My logical brain just can't seem get my arms around this point.
Thanks for the help.

I read Greg McCallister's post and pictures (http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=90.0) of his design and setup. Very interesting, however, I have several questions:
As has been suggested by him and others, using a separate separator (garbage can) attached to your DC will likely reduce suction thus the design idea of putting the cyclone/baffle in the DC to minimize the loss.
But...unless I am missing something here...isn't Greg McCallister setup still using a garbage can separator, that is separate from the DC? So why didn't he noticed the same losses? I realize that there are less hoses since it is attached directly to the motor, but doesn't  the largest loss come from the garbage can itself?
Also, he is using 6" piping. Again, maybe I am missing something important, but no matter how large the pipe is, if it has to be eventually dropped down to 3" or 4" to connect to the power tools, don't you loose any advantage of the larger diameter pipe? The air still has to be squeezed down to fit through the smaller opening at the ends. Wouldn't that constriction take away any advantage of the larger pipe? Besides, wouldn't a larger diameter pipe reduce the suction (static pressure) developed by the DC?
Confused (My wife says I stay confused most of the time, anyway)