this question is about the pictures of Phil's baffle that appear on the j. phil thien site. i think i know what fittings were used above the lid(the black ones). my question concerns how the outlet and inlets ,below the lid,were attached to their respective "above the lid" black fittings. any input would be appreciated.
I used a hole saw to cut a hole the size of the O.D. of the PVC fittings (the elbow and the coupler). Then I hot-melt glued those fittings into the holes.
I love hot-melt glue for this application. It holds plastic great, and you don't have to wait more than a minute or two for it to set up.
what elbow and coupler did you use?
The PVC is a 2" female elbow and a 2" female coupler (for the short outlet or vortex finder tube). These female components are intended to have a 2" PVC pipe inserted INTO them, so the actual I.D. of the parts is approx. 2-1/2".
when you say pvc, are you referring to the schedule 40 plumbing fittings that are available at HD for DWV applications? or is it something else? thanks.
Schedule 40, purchased at Ace hardware. The elbow is an outside to outside elbow. I mean, both sides go around the outside of the PVC. There are outside to inside, but they are large on one end and small on the other. You want the larger opening on BOTH ends.
Just wanted to add to this thread ...
I just bought the PVC pieces from the hardware store. I was a bit surprised to find that to O.D of the 2" PVC fittings (female) is about 2.75". I'm glad I checked the O.D. at the store. I had to pick up a 2.75" hole saw. Perhaps this note will save someone a bit of trouble .. or an extra trip to the hardware store. :)
Quote from: rhino on May 18, 2009, 01:50:15 PM
Just wanted to add to this thread ...
I just bought the PVC pieces from the hardware store. I was a bit surprised to find that to O.D of the 2" PVC fittings (female) is about 2.75". I'm glad I checked the O.D. at the store. I had to pick up a 2.75" hole saw. Perhaps this note will save someone a bit of trouble .. or an extra trip to the hardware store. :)
If you're going to use a hole saw and you want it to go a little faster, use this trick:
Start the hole w/ the hole saw. Just score the wood. Now use a regular 1/4" drill bit to drill a couple of holes just inside the score mark. Now switch back to the hole saw and finish-up.
This gives the sawdust a place to go, rather than just staying in the kerf and slowing the progress down.
Quote from: phil (admin) on May 18, 2009, 06:51:26 PM
If you're going to use a hole saw and you want it to go a little faster, use this trick:
Start the hole w/ the hole saw. Just score the wood. Now use a regular 1/4" drill bit to drill a couple of holes just inside the score mark. Now switch back to the hole saw and finish-up.
This gives the sawdust a place to go, rather than just staying in the kerf and slowing the progress down.
Thanks for the tip.
I'll admit defeat with the hole saw idea. Using a 2.75" hole saw to cut through MDF is not a good idea. It burns badly and the hole saw ends up being a complete mess ... although it leaves an accurate hole for the PVC fittings.
What method do you use? Router with bushing and template?
Quote from: rhino on May 18, 2009, 10:53:52 PM
Thanks for the tip.
I'll admit defeat with the hole saw idea. Using a 2.75" hole saw to cut through MDF is not a good idea. It burns badly and the hole saw ends up being a complete mess ... although it leaves an accurate hole for the PVC fittings.
What method do you use? Router with bushing and template?
I actually use a carbide-tipped hole saw for the smaller holes. For larger ones I use the router table w/ a template I made using my circle jig. But I have used bimetal hole saws and as long as I drill the relief holes (2-3 of them) it works pretty well.
I used one of those adjustable circle cutters and my portable drill. It got interesting at times... But it eventually worked :D
I use Bimetal Hole Saws when I can. I have done the router gig, as well as simply drill, cut out with the jig saw.... That method usually requires more than ample amounts of silicone sealant or hot melt glue...
Quote from: bennybmn on May 19, 2009, 06:24:48 PM
I used one of those adjustable circle cutters and my portable drill. It got interesting at times... But it eventually worked :D
Yeah, those things can be a real two-handed rodeo in a portable drill. ;D
Phil -- that tip for cutting holes with a hole saw worked quite well. Thanks!
Quote from: Vaughn on May 20, 2009, 02:59:14 AM
Quote from: bennybmn on May 19, 2009, 06:24:48 PM
I used one of those adjustable circle cutters and my portable drill. It got interesting at times... But it eventually worked :D
Yeah, those things can be a real two-handed rodeo in a portable drill. ;D
Luckily mine has a side handle!