Updated outlet to 6" from blower

Started by Greg McCallister, January 24, 2009, 10:19:18 AM

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Greg McCallister

thought I would post the pictures of the modified outlet from the HF DC. I upsized the outlet from 5"to 6" and plumbed directly to the Wynn Environmental filter.
I was going to cut a hole and create a dust collection tray area on the bottom but figured that I will have to clean out the filter anyways in the future so it just goes directly into the filter. Sure made a difference in noticeable noise - much quieter.
In the pictures I showed how I formed the outlet with 6" PVC. Made a form out of some scrap wood and heated the PVC and worked it in. The pictures not mounted is from the first one I created. When gluing the PVC to the wood I thought a couple of small brads would help hold it. Not smart as it cracked the PVC. Glue used is wood glue for gluing melamine on the finished piece, works real good. The one pictured I used PVC glue which seems to be holding quite well.
I was able to mount the adapter using the existing rubber gasket from the original outlet.
So far, so good, will update after I use it for a while and see how it works.
Last picture is our new addition to the family  ;D

phil (admin)

Nice work.  It will be interesting to hear how quickly the filter loads.

What is the puppy's name?

Greg McCallister

#2
The puppy's name is Gucci. Wife's baby ... miniture dachshund  ::).
Looking at the overall footprint now, I believe is would fit nicely on the original cart for portability with much less height.

bsully

Hi Greg - awesome job, I'll follow most of your suggestions as I upgrade my Griz 2HP collector with Wynn Filter similar to yours.

You mentioned that it might fit on the cart, how would you support the blower & Motor? ???

Thanks,
Brian

dbhost

I would LOVE to see the 6" upgrade done still utilizing the inlet ring / stand setup.

Greg McCallister

#5
It has been a while since I posted last. Being in Michigan with one of the worst economies in the country, I have not been doing a whole lot of woodworking but concentrating more on my job which required much of my time. Well the job thing has worked out (got hired directly from a contract position) and am now getting back into the shop.
I was asked a long while ago to update with hooking the filter up directly without the original separator and how it is working.
Well I messed up - the last time I emptied the can the top did not seat properly to the can. Well you can guess the next time I used it,  most of the stuff went into the filter instead of dropping into the can. Cleaned the filter and am giving it another shot.
As you can see by the pics previously posted, I had ran the duct work rigid into the tophat assembly. The rigid ductwork restricted the tophat movement.
To fix this issue, I installed a short piece of 6" flex between the tophat and my ductwork. This allows the tophat to seat properly without a possibility of lifting from the rigid pipe (hope that made since). Again I will update when I get to creating some more dust  ;).

Still checking out the latest mods - man you guys are really getting creative!
I still have not come up with a drawing on how to mount it directly to the cart. It would require a pretty sturdy frame to hold the motor as it is very heavy. Learning AutoCAD at work now, so when I get a chance I will draw something up unless I use Visio again.
I did acquire a very large piece of Plexiglas or acrylic that I might make another one with so as to see how this thing separates. Things are in the works but time is an issue at the moment.
Keep posing those mods - you guys give me some great ideas.
Happy Holidays to everyone.

Greg

rnease

Hi, folks. I've been a lurker both here, at the creek, and also Bp's site for a while, and finally think I have enough info to move forward from where I am, which is a Powermatic 2hp with cartridge filter (1 micron). I move it from TS to chopsaw to planer to sander, ad nausea. I've been using flexible 4" hose, which i also drag from tool to tool. Also, a powermatic air cleaner, which does quite well. I'm thinking of using a heavy duty plastic barrel from former dairy, pretty heavy weight, about 30 gallons or so, and mounting the baffle ahead of the DC and using 6" 26 gauge ducting and drops wherever possible. Hoping to also get a used 230v squirrel cage free to mount in the basement window, so that I can rapidly clean up volatile organic compound fumes from spray booth. After months of paralysis by analysis, I have decided to build the baffle, stick with both powermatic units and the cartridge filter. I'm also thinking that I will build most of my blast gates with 1/8" hardboard and scrap wood, and use a side inlet to the baffle. My question is this - is there a REALLy clear picture somewhere on here that i missed, that would give me a better idea as to the proportions for the bottom part of the baffle, and the required distance from the top portion to the bottom portion? Or, is that something that can best be determined by experimentation-hence the threaded rod?

Sorry for my first post being so long - lots of pent up inaction springing to life all at one time. Grew up at a southern pine sawmill, watched my dad die from emphysema (smoker, burning bark, slabs, dust??) and don't want to suffer the same fate. But, also don't want to have to wear a mask all the time, either. Thanks to you all for the inspiration, and Phil, I will certainly be contributing to the cause! ???

phil (admin)

Those dimensions aren't critical.  You want about an inch or so between the top and bottom of the inlet and the bottom of the top and the top of the baffle.

And the inlet should hug the wall of the barrel as much as possible.

That will give you the best separation and prevent clogging.