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Top hat question

Started by Holsterguy, October 02, 2018, 04:16:07 PM

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Holsterguy

Getting ready to start my top hat for HF dust collector. To avoid having the problems with attatching the lexan to the baffle plate and still have the drop slot at the edge of the container, has anybody ever tried this? Top of the angle pc. would be siliconed.

tommitytomtom

Conceptually, I don't see why that would be a problem. Are you planning on making several 45 degree blocks or a long, kerf-cut, bendable piece ?

alan m

i think i would put the sloped part below the baffel plate. it might cause problems above it

Holsterguy

Was thinking of one pc of mdf, cut to the same inside radius as the baffle slot. Might take some figuring at the inlet area. Theoretically, it would allow for the lexan to be placed 3/4" out so it could be set in a groove like the top. My thinking is it would "funnel" stuff to the drop slot. Also, being set in dados top and bottom, wouldn't need support blocks and screws???

tommitytomtom

After reviewing your picture again, I had a thought. Why not move the "groove" closer to the drop slot and put the reinforcing angle on the outside of the wall ? This would make the side wall and dust container closer to the same diameter and prevent possible fines collecting on the side of the top hat wall. Just thinking out loud here.

retired2

Quote from: tommitytomtom on October 04, 2018, 07:58:04 AM
After reviewing your picture again, I had a thought. Why not move the "groove" closer to the drop slot and put the reinforcing angle on the outside of the wall ? This would make the side wall and dust container closer to the same diameter and prevent possible fines collecting on the side of the top hat wall. Just thinking out loud here.

Good luck installing a "fillet" block in a way that does not have any gap, even a tiny one, between it and the lexan wall.  Any gap will provide a place for shavings to snag, and once it starts it may build up quickly.  And if you fill the gap with caulk you will have to be very careful not to allow excess on the wall or the fillet block.  Caulk, even when dry, does not have a very slick surface.

My advice is get rid of the ledge and the need for a ramp.

Holsterguy

Thanks R2, that makes a lot of scense! Oh well, thought I had a good idea.

tommitytomtom

I guess what I was suggesting isn't really any different than a normal design only that you'll be adding some re-enforcment to the outside wall near the lid.