J. Phil Thien's Projects

There are 2 topics just below yours. One is mine and progress is quite slow at the moment due to a back injury. I'm using a Reliant 3HP DC with 55 gallon drum collection. Stay tuned.

No real work on this new design for me. A back injury has kept me limited to 15lbs of weight limit. Getting better, Doc visit today.

I think it will be counterproductive. The idea of a cyclonic baffle is that the spiraling effect is what slows down the heavier material. Adding vertical vanes will slow down the air and particles. The cones or dunes created are natural and disturbing them will have adverse effects. Your mileage may vary.

What Alan M said. Use a high R value insulation. especially if you are in a cold environment. Condensation will be an issue.

I guess what I was suggesting isn't really any different than a normal design only that you'll be adding some re-enforcment to the outside wall near the lid.

After reviewing your picture again, I had a thought. Why not move the "groove" closer to the drop slot and put the reinforcing angle on the outside of the wall ? This would make the side wall and dust container closer to the same diameter and prevent possible fines collecting on the side of the top hat wall. Just thinking out loud here.

Conceptually, I don't see why that would be a problem. Are you planning on making several 45 degree blocks or a long, kerf-cut, bendable piece ?

Currently, the drop slot is 1 1/2". I chose this because of the assumed amount of CFM the motor/impeller are supposed to flow. Yes, undercutting the baffle will help airflow and I think as I enlarge the slot near the end, I'll round or teardrop the end as well. Only testing will yield the results, which I'll post here. Now,....off to re-arrange my shop.

I see what you mean. Perhaps I'll widen the drop slot as it nears the end and shave the underside. I will have a jointer and planer connected to this system.

My other baffles have been 3/4" thick MDF as others that I've seen here. Given the large diameter, I would have liked to use 3/4" but 5/8 was all I had.

Not much work over the last several days but did manage to cut out the baffle and install for fitment. The rest of the work today consisted of dismantling the dust collector down to the motor, fan housing and mounting bracket. I may weld up a frame to mount the motor/blower housing vertically to allow me to place the suction side directly over the tophat with a short 6" flex hose. Eventually, I'd like to mount the motor/blower housing on the wall in the corner of my shop but I'll need to move some equipment waiting to be restored to use. The baffle itself is 5/8" MDF scrap. I pre-drilled holes in the edge and then added one 5/16" threaded rod for support (not pictured). More later. I've been toying with the idea of adding an "air ramp" to help direct the air/sawdust downward. This will be a later experiment.

I think clear sides are a good idea as retired2 stated. That being said, every separator I've built did NOT have clear sides. This is because I used the materials at hand. That and I'm a tightwad.

1. I prefer the collector BEFORE the impeller.
2. IF shop is air conditioned and/or heated, IF you exhaust your DC outside, you'll need to have makeup air brought into the shop. Either heat or AC will have trouble this way.
3. With a filter internal to the shop, no makeup air is required.

I posted on a new thread. Didn't want to hijack yours.

I've been toying with the idea of building a 55 gallon drum tophat separator. I stumbled upon a stupid-cheap Reliant 3hp 2 bagger at the local Habitat Resale store. I'll use 1 drum  for the collection and part of another for the tophat. I got started last weekend so here's what I have so far. Some drums have a rib ringed in thirds so the tophat will be 1/3 the height of the collection drum. I did this because the bottom of the rib fits nicely into the open top of the collection drum. All I need to seal it is some foam weather stripping. I think the weight will keep it in place. If not I can easily add clamps. I also used one inlet port from the bag ring of the collector as my side inlet to the tophat. This will make it easy I think for servicing and connection to a hose or pipe system.