YA Delta 50-760 Baffle Implementation

[JTJ]

After lurking at various DC sites, I finally was lead to Phil's Baffle, and decided it was the way to go based on how well it was working for everyone.  But I still agonized over the 5" / 4", BP maximized air flow until I finally just decided to go with a 4" implementation until I do some real layout work for the shop in my basement.  So here is the interim solution, the good and the bad. 

I liked the direct connection used by Brian Marks, but didn't have fast enough access to his nifty drum, but used it at my starting point.  Picked up threaded rod, had 5/8" particle board and couldn't get 1/4" double sided slick hardboard easily enough.  Had a 2 ft section of Schedule 40 pipe and a Schedule 40 long 90 degree elbow.  Found the clay pipe to drainage rubber connector used by others, and a Rockler/Woodcraft universal angled connector.  Used dbhosts instructions for the most part, but now wished I hadn't made the tolerances as tight as my pictures will show (wanting to use as much of that Behran's Garbage Can as possible, no side collapsion problem using the Delta 50-760 so far). 

To transition the input, I cut off one end of the elbow leaving it angled and cut the hole in the top for the intake after transferring the new skewed end as a pattern and angling the cut on the two elongated ends.  Any adjustments were made with a rounded surform rasp.  Cut a section of the Sch 40 pipe as the outake, and used hot glue to join the schedule 40 pipe and elbow to the baffle lid which made a very solid connection.  Used a straight surform rasp to level the elbow to the top.  Used silicon to join the slanted universal after aligning it for a smooth transition to the elbow.

Performance so far is very very good, with only a the finest of dust making it into the bag.  Unlike Mark, I just cut that nasty side support off, figuring that if I need to reinforce it a new handle of wood will do quite nicely.  I believe that when I get my planer up and going that I'll have to drop the bottom of the baffle at least an inch to avoid hangups of shavings, or at least fill in some of the gaps.  For the moment, experiments dumping everything into thebaffle has sent it into the garbage can.  Yet to be done is putting some tape over the handles of the can on the inside, weather stripping to optimize the seal ( it seems very good without it however), and in general making the can as air tight as possible.

Thanks to everyone contributing to this site.  I will be spreading the word as I have seen so many people just resorting to one of the pre-made can lids when they could be doing far better.

[dbhost]

Nice build!

FWIW, if you ever want to scale up to 6", you should be able to get a 5" to 6" coupler like you did with the 4" to 5" and then simply change the fittings out on the lid...

I like how you sloped the ramps. I have wondered if that would help, but I have taken to making my baffles with hardboard, pretty sure sloping that is pointless...

[JTJ]

Nice build!

FWIW, if you ever want to scale up to 6", you should be able to get a 5" to 6" coupler like you did with the 4" to 5" and then simply change the fittings out on the lid...

I like how you sloped the ramps. I have wondered if that would help, but I have taken to making my baffles with hardboard, pretty sure sloping that is pointless...

Thanks for the compliment on the build as well as the efforts you have made to help others put a baffle together. 

I would have like to do a 5" but that takes some planning to source the parts.  Right now the water that leaks into the basement (record rainfalls this year in Atlanta) requires everything on wheels in the basement for mopping up, so the 50-760 is perfect and the 4" with an elbow seems to do OK hanging inside the garbage can.  If I went to 5 or 6 I'd want to go to a side intake to keep the cyclonic swirl efficient allowing the dust to drop down as it slows against the sides of the can (or so it seems to me).  There isn't enough headroom to put a "Topper" as VAwoodworker84 did and still have an unmodified mobile cart (no headroom in the basement without going to a Wynn cartridge Filter) or an unmodified drum (cutting the height down), as I need at least 3" to 4" for the riser out of the baffle plus another 1 1/2 inches for the nipple from the housing, and at least 1/2" of clearance to allow the seal to slide down to pull out the can.  The Behrans can is 27", and there is 9 1/8" of clearance between the top of the can and the housing.

I would tend to agree with Bill Pentz, that there doesn't seem to be much sense in going to 6" when the 1 1/2 HP on the 50-760 and the 5" nipple would be a mismatch, but it was tempting because it could be used if I upgraded and parts are so very much more easy to find in PVC (other than the dust ports or lack thereof on our equipment at the price range that I can afford).

It would have been nice to find a 1/4" hardboard slick two sides but so far I haven't found a readily accessible source, so ramping the 5/8" baffle seemed to be a reasonable thing to do. 

For the moment at least I'm happy with the current setup ;D.

[dbhost]

FWIW, I went with the slick one side hardboard, with the rough side down to the settled debris. Not sure slick both sides would help, don't think it would hurt though... Honestly hadn't thought about it. My thought process was that the rough side below should if anything slow the air in the lower area down enough to release the dust load...

[Todd]

Nice set-up.  I'm also in Atlanta and thankfully haven't had any leaky absement issues yet!?   ???  I also have the 50-760 as well and I built the baffle for my shop vac and it works great.  I need to do this for my dc.  How easy is it to remove the trash can.  What size can did you use?  I bought one from an Ace hardware that was closing at 50% off. ;D 

Also for the single smooth sided hardboard, I used 1/4 mdf that I bought from HD and it works great!

Do you move your dc around to each tool or do you have a piping system?  I need to look at how the cyclone attaches to the 5" dc port?

[JTJ]

Nice set-up.  I'm also in Atlanta and thankfully haven't had any leaky absement issues yet!?   ???  I also have the 50-760 as well and I built the baffle for my shop vac and it works great.  I need to do this for my dc.  How easy is it to remove the trash can.  What size can did you use?  I bought one from an Ace hardware that was closing at 50% off. ;D 

Todd, It's very easy to remove the trashcan, I just loosen the two clamp screws on the fitting between the housing and the length of Sch 40 pipe that is the output from the baffle and slide it down.  There is enough clearance that the can will slide out easily.  You did notice that I removed the brace from the platform side and that my can sits on the small platform.  Just closed my eyes (no not really) and took that sucker off.  The can is the 30 Gallon from HD or Lowes, and just made sure I got one that wasn't banged up and that the lip was relatively round.  Good show on a 50% discount from ACE.

Also for the single smooth sided hardboard, I used 1/4 mdf that I bought from HD and it works great!

Do you move your dc around to each tool or do you have a piping system?  I need to look at how the cyclone attaches to the 5" dc port?

Right now I move it from station to station, or move the equipment to it.  Mobility has both disadvantages and advantatages  8).  The 4" Clay to S&D pipe connector Flexible Clay Pipe Coupling (Home Depot SKU 688193), is large enough on the clay end to fit over the 5" nipple from the housing pretty loosely and over the 4" Sch40 Pipe perfectly, PTB-Delta Connection-1 pic above shows the gasket in the raised position.  PTB-Delta Connection-2 shows it about 1/2 down the pipe from the baffle.  Search for Brian Marks  in the threads.  He has a great closeup of the fitting or go to the HD website and search on the SKU.

The planer stays boxed until I get it on a mobile base >:(.  I had to make a promise to myself that everything has to be able to move until the water issue is decently resolved.  Wasn't much of a problem until this year.

[tool_fool]

Please clarify.  Except for input fittings and filters, has anybody made worthwhile internal modifications to a Delta 50-760 DC?

I'm about to make start this separator project, but I'm a little confused over what I've read and/or imagined.  Some of the words have led me to believe that others have actually modified the 50-760 inards.  All I've done is replace the input "Y" with a more compact 5" to 4" reducer.

Many thanks in advance!

tf

[tool_fool]

I bought a Delta tin 5" to 4" reducer a couple years ago before I got distracted.  It was smaller than the original Delta 50-760's stock  5" to 4" Y reducer, but still did not allow much room for a 30g metal can, so I trimmed it a bit with tin snips and still had to replace the 30 g can with a 20 g can.  Now, plenty of room. 

I searched online for the same Delta reducer I currently have, but all I found is an apparently taller plastic version:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=pd_rhf_s_1?ie=UTF8&search-alias=blended&keywords=delta%205%204%20reducer

With respect to an internal baffle within the 50-760 DC, I'm still wondering about design and efficacy - at a loss.  Anybody have pictures or a description?  I'm misssing something.
Thx. 

tf

[JTJ]

I bought a Delta tin 5" to 4" reducer a couple years ago before I got distracted.  It was smaller than the original Delta 50-760's stock  5" to 4" Y reducer, but still did not allow much room for a 30g metal can, so I trimmed it a bit with tin snips and still had to replace the 30 g can with a 20 g can.  Now, plenty of room.  

I searched online for the same Delta reducer I currently have, but all I found is an apparently taller plastic version:

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=pd_rhf_s_1?ie=UTF8&search-alias=blended&keywords=delta%205%204%20reducer

With respect to an internal baffle within the 50-760 DC, I'm still wondering about design and efficacy - at a loss.  Anybody have pictures or a description?  I'm misssing something.
Thx.  

tf

On the 50-760 that I'm useing I didn't use a reducer between the separator and the blower, I left it at 5". As far as mounting a baffle inside a 50-760, because of the unique blower houseing / bag mount it would pose to be a challenge, especially if you use the internal bag ring to fasten the lower bag, like I do.

Every once in a while, when I'm pulling long shavings from the inside of the 50-760 after hand planing a board, I want to fill up some of the peculiar "hollows" in the body, but I still like the idea of the separator being in front of the DC, so I've never considered trying to retrofit the baffle.  If I ever cut over to 5", I definitely will try to arrange it so that I have a top hat design with a side input and a wider drop in hopes the shavings will have a better chance to "settle".

I do need to add about another inch to the lower support posts to keep the long stuff from trapping under the inlet, but I'm very pleased with Phil's design and how well it works.  I'm going to do another one for a 6 gallon Jason's deli pickle bucket that looks but doesn't smell like a unused paint bucket with just a little more capacity, and put a shop vac on a mobile platform to take care of some of my 2 1/2 inch sanding chores.

JT