from the video there does not appear to be any sealing between the lid and the trash can - is this correct?
As the shop vac I am using has 4in pipework and connectors, would using 4in connectors in the lid work OK, as well as your 2.5in system?
looking forward to helpful suggestions,
kind regards,
Jill
My lids seal well because I take great pains to get everything to fit well. The suction draws the top down tight. I have tried taping around the outside of the lid, which DOES increase CFM by 2-5 depending on the current top I'm using. Having some sort of weatherstrip would be optimum, but I haven't found that I need it.
And 4" fittings will work, you'll just need a larger can. I have pics of that posted somewhere. I'll try to find some tonight.
Okay, I finally had a chance to take some measurements and do a little more experimenting with CAD (still learning). I've included a 2D drawing of my top.
Please note that this top is 20-5/8" in diameter, which is the diameter of the 31-gallon garbage can I purchased at Home Depot. Most garbage cans aren't perfectly round, so you'll want to take several measurements of the diameter and average them together.
Also, this is a view from the top. On the bottom side there is a notch that I created with a rabbeting bit that allows the top to sit down in the can a little bit. This helps seal the top on the can. Here is the bit:
http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2116
(I used the bearing that results in a 5/16" groove).
Phil,
I just finished my Thien Cyclone separator lid and tried it out - works better than advertised! My only question is how do you keep the trash can from collapsing?
I have a Sears 16 gallon shop vac connected to a 30 gallon metal trash can (from Lowes). If I get too aggressive sucking up wood chips & dust, the trash can starts collapsing on 4 sides (appears to be at right angles to each other).
Any suggestions about bracing the inside of the can?
Craig
As you increase the size of the can you have to increase the strength of the can, as well. There are garbage cans that are more sturdy. There are also steel drums that have stronger walls. Other people have figured out ways to reinforce their existing cans.
Another idea is to add a relief valve to the top. I've never done this, and I'm not sure how I'd make one. But it has to be doable somehow.
The 30 gal can has bent about 5 or 6 times and it's now weakened to the point that it starts collapsing when the shop vac is initially turned on.
I'll look for a way to strengthen the can, or look for a stronger 30 gal can.
Thanks.
Craig
All,
Any suggestions for (1) source for a sturdy container that will not collapse and/or (2) bracing the container so it won't collapse?
Thanks in advance.
Craig
Post on your local craigslist that you're looking for used steel drums with removable tops? I know some places use smaller (20 and 30-gallon) cans that would work perfectly, and lots of places just stack 'em outside when they're done with them.