These are the pics from Ray Schafter (also known as rsquest) separator with side inlet. Looking very nice so far, can't wait for further reports.
I REALLY wish that I had made it point the other direction! I changed my mind about where to put it, and it now points in the wrong direction! Oh well, I will have to figure out how to make it work in the spot where I am putting the DC.
Funny I was going to comment on how you seem to be the only one that spins counter clockwise! I LOVE the side inlet idea. If I ever make a pre-separator, or help someone make one, that's what I'll suggest.
It was much easier to make than I expected ... once I figured out how! I spent 2 months figurin' and 2 hours doin' !
>I REALLY wish that I had made it point the other direction! I changed my mind about where to put it, and it now points
>in the wrong direction! Oh well, I will have to figure out how to make it work in the spot where I am putting the DC.
I wouldn't think it would make a difference what direction the winds swirling.
Does it matter which way the air flows? Is clockwise better than counter-clockwise for separation?
Quote from: Rob Cunningham on January 14, 2009, 07:34:13 AM
Does it matter which way the air flows? Is clockwise better than counter-clockwise for separation?
Nope, it doesn't matter. Use whichever fits your installation better.
Quote from: Rob Cunningham on January 14, 2009, 07:34:13 AM
Does it matter which way the air flows? Is clockwise better than counter-clockwise for separation?
Are you south of the equator? :D
I completely inverted my DC to accomodate the baffle, still works great spinning CC-wise.
I only care what direction because of the setup in my garage. If it was on the other side it would be up against the wall and would be easier to connect. Oh well, it will be fine.
Well, I finished connecting my separator. I will post pictures some time this week. I had to buy a crimper in order to get the 5 inch ducts work. I made a platform to put under the separator so that when I want to empty it, I just slide out the platform, the separator moves down and disconnects from the DC, and I can slide it out. I am using 5 inch hose, which I was able to connect by using the crimper.
Seems to be working great so far.
Quote from: rsquest on January 18, 2009, 10:18:44 PM
Seems to be working great so far.
Thanks for sharing the pics. Using those I was able to complete my trash can last night.
Now I just need to cut the recess on the baffle portion and get the 6" PVC pipe put in to the top.
Quote from: phil (admin) on January 14, 2009, 11:35:54 AM
Quote from: Rob Cunningham on January 14, 2009, 07:34:13 AM
Does it matter which way the air flows? Is clockwise better than counter-clockwise for separation?
Nope, it doesn't matter. Use whichever fits your installation better.
The natural flow of gravity in the northern hemisphere is clockwise. Counter clockwise in the southern.
You can prove this by observing the flow of water down a drain or when flushing a toilet. I don't know if this would have an effect on heavier chips or not, or whether it would cause a decrease in efficiency?
You could sell the unit to someone in South America. ::)
Buck
Buck, I think you're referring to the Coriolis effect. When it comes to dust in a cyclone separator, the Coriolis effect is insignificant.
hey i just flushed the pot and it went counter clock wise and i live in chicago :o
It's a bit off topic but still worth knowing.
http://www.snopes.com/science/coriolis.asp
man there is way 2much stuff on the www but i was just checking on what buck said in his post. i know it dont make no diff which way it comes in the separator but i was :o when i noticed it was ccw and now i know better. i started on the separator but when it came time to put in the 6" fittings it dont give me that much room to the bottom so now im looking 4a new can that is taller. i have a bigger plastic drum but after i install the 6" fittings i will end up with the volume of the trash can which i think will fill up quick when i use the planer or clean out the truck ;D. thx 4nfo
Morning All. Have spent the last couple of days reading the site. Great job by Phil. I was wondering where Ray bought the side intake and if it is a 4" or 6" model? I like the design and was thinking about building one like it with my collector mounted directly above the can.
Thanks txmcook
Fortunately I found this site yesterday. At my wife's suggestion, I began building/setting-up a workshop in a 14'x20' shed last fall. Prior to that it was in the garage. Early last year I conned my wife into a dust conrol system to keep the dust out of the kitchen. I bought my HF 2 HP system before I found all the info on the web about cyclones. Now I can't go back to her and tell her I need to spend another $1,500 on a different system.
I compared the bits and pieces of my collector and it looks like I could cut the 4" intake and install it on the side of a trask can. My question is:
Can I eliminate the collector and just go straight to a filter (again HF) from the discharge side of this cyclone?
phil(admin)..if i am understanding the info about the baffle, if this
http://www.woodcraft.com/articles.aspx?articleid=408 (http://www.woodcraft.com/articles.aspx?articleid=408)
were to have a baffle added, there's a pretty good chance it would work better than it does, correct, once the outlet going to the vac/dust collector is shortened to provide for the baffle? it's the baffle that has the biggest impact on performance, right. thanks.
It would still be better to make your own, as the best configuration has the outlet top dead center of the lid. The Woodcraft design has an offset outlet.
thanks for the reply. i understand that the woodcraft, et al , units are less effective due to the offset of the outlet. the link i put in my post was to an instruction for a completely homemade separator, albeit without a baffle such as yours. looking at the drawing in the link, would the addition of your baffle improve the performance of such a unit, assuming inlet and outlet pipes according to your specifications? lastly, what size separator pail is preferred for use with (1) a shop vac with 2 1/2" fittings or (2) a 1-1 1/2hp dust collector (like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B00006K005/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_0?ie=UTF8&index=0 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-media/product-gallery/B00006K005/ref=cm_ciu_pdp_images_0?ie=UTF8&index=0)) with a 4" inlet to the impeller. i built the one pictured in the link mentioned above using a 5 gallon drywall pail without any kind of a baffle and it hasn't worked especially well. your innovation is very impressive. thanks again for the information.
The baffle will absolutely help the offset design. For shop-vac based designs, I'd go with a 10-gallon bin. If you go much larger you really have to make sure the walls are study and can handle the suction, otherwise if the inlet hose gets blocked the can will collapse.
thanks. and for a 1hp dust collector with a single 4" input to the impellor? would 20 gal work ok? and, lastly, would a 50 gal brown fiber drum be too large for a 1hp delta dust colllector (such as the one shown in my link in the above post)? assuming a properly sized baffle, what size container , as a separator for a 1hp DC, would be too large? your patience with these questions is appreciated.
Once you go to the lower static lift of a DC, then you can pretty much go any size container you'd like. 20-gallons is fine, as is 50. But keep in mind that a 50-gallon container full of 40-gallons of dust is pretty darn heavy.
thanks fo the info. your patience and advice is really appreciated. BTW, what do you think of this lid, as it seems to avoid the offset issue of the woodcraft and pioneer lids:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30282&cat=1,42401&ap=1 (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30282&cat=1,42401&ap=1)
Quote from: toolguy1000 on March 16, 2009, 06:29:22 PM
thanks fo the info. your patience and advice is really appreciated. BTW, what do you think of this lid, as it seems to avoid the offset issue of the woodcraft and pioneer lids:
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30282&cat=1,42401&ap=1 (http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=30282&cat=1,42401&ap=1)
They're alright, but still a compromise in that they fire dust downward towards any baffle you'd add.
so the idea is to have the dust enter the pre separator parallel to the baffle and the lid., thus creating the vortex?
Quote from: toolguy1000 on March 17, 2009, 10:01:44 PM
so the idea is to have the dust enter the pre separator parallel to the baffle and the lid., thus creating the vortex?
Yep!