After lurking at various DC sites, I finally was lead to Phil's Baffle, and decided it was the way to go based on how well it was working for everyone. But I still agonized over the 5" / 4", BP maximized air flow until I finally just decided to go with a 4" implementation until I do some real layout work for the shop in my basement. So here is the interim solution, the good and the bad.
I liked the direct connection used by Brian Marks, but didn't have fast enough access to his nifty drum, but used it at my starting point. Picked up threaded rod, had 5/8" particle board and couldn't get 1/4" double sided slick hardboard easily enough. Had a 2 ft section of Schedule 40 pipe and a Schedule 40 long 90 degree elbow. Found the clay pipe to drainage rubber connector used by others, and a Rockler/Woodcraft universal angled connector. Used dbhosts instructions for the most part, but now wished I hadn't made the tolerances as tight as my pictures will show (wanting to use as much of that Behran's Garbage Can as possible, no side collapsion problem using the Delta 50-760 so far).
To transition the input, I cut off one end of the elbow leaving it angled and cut the hole in the top for the intake after transferring the new skewed end as a pattern and angling the cut on the two elongated ends. Any adjustments were made with a rounded surform rasp. Cut a section of the Sch 40 pipe as the outake, and used hot glue to join the schedule 40 pipe and elbow to the baffle lid which made a very solid connection. Used a straight surform rasp to level the elbow to the top. Used silicon to join the slanted universal after aligning it for a smooth transition to the elbow.
Performance so far is very very good, with only a the finest of dust making it into the bag. Unlike Mark, I just cut that nasty side support off, figuring that if I need to reinforce it a new handle of wood will do quite nicely. I believe that when I get my planer up and going that I'll have to drop the bottom of the baffle at least an inch to avoid hangups of shavings, or at least fill in some of the gaps. For the moment, experiments dumping everything into thebaffle has sent it into the garbage can. Yet to be done is putting some tape over the handles of the can on the inside, weather stripping to optimize the seal ( it seems very good without it however), and in general making the can as air tight as possible.
Thanks to everyone contributing to this site. I will be spreading the word as I have seen so many people just resorting to one of the pre-made can lids when they could be doing far better.
I liked the direct connection used by Brian Marks, but didn't have fast enough access to his nifty drum, but used it at my starting point. Picked up threaded rod, had 5/8" particle board and couldn't get 1/4" double sided slick hardboard easily enough. Had a 2 ft section of Schedule 40 pipe and a Schedule 40 long 90 degree elbow. Found the clay pipe to drainage rubber connector used by others, and a Rockler/Woodcraft universal angled connector. Used dbhosts instructions for the most part, but now wished I hadn't made the tolerances as tight as my pictures will show (wanting to use as much of that Behran's Garbage Can as possible, no side collapsion problem using the Delta 50-760 so far).
To transition the input, I cut off one end of the elbow leaving it angled and cut the hole in the top for the intake after transferring the new skewed end as a pattern and angling the cut on the two elongated ends. Any adjustments were made with a rounded surform rasp. Cut a section of the Sch 40 pipe as the outake, and used hot glue to join the schedule 40 pipe and elbow to the baffle lid which made a very solid connection. Used a straight surform rasp to level the elbow to the top. Used silicon to join the slanted universal after aligning it for a smooth transition to the elbow.
Performance so far is very very good, with only a the finest of dust making it into the bag. Unlike Mark, I just cut that nasty side support off, figuring that if I need to reinforce it a new handle of wood will do quite nicely. I believe that when I get my planer up and going that I'll have to drop the bottom of the baffle at least an inch to avoid hangups of shavings, or at least fill in some of the gaps. For the moment, experiments dumping everything into thebaffle has sent it into the garbage can. Yet to be done is putting some tape over the handles of the can on the inside, weather stripping to optimize the seal ( it seems very good without it however), and in general making the can as air tight as possible.
Thanks to everyone contributing to this site. I will be spreading the word as I have seen so many people just resorting to one of the pre-made can lids when they could be doing far better.