J. Phil Thien's Projects

The G1029Z2 which is rated @ 1550 CFM is  240V only and the specs show a 9A draw. A 20A breaker is capable of sustaining a 16A load (80% of total) without tripping. On a 9A draw you would have about 7A for additional load on the 240V circuit. This does not account for startup draw which will vary depending on the piece of equipment. The DC will have a significant startup draw so it would have to be started first with the idea that the other device has a lower startup draw.

The G1028Z2 is rated at 1300 CFM and has a 12A draw on a 120V circuit. This leaves little room for any additional equipment. The unit can be converted to 240V with a 6A draw so would have more capacity for additional 240V equipment on the same circuit.

You might find this article useful in trying to decide on which unit to buy. It is a few years old but has quite a bit of test data for a number of units including the two you are looking into. I ended up buying the Grizzly about 18 months ago and they had it on sale so the cost was near the Penn State unit.

http://www.portercable.com/uploads/PCD/Documents/News/182DustCollectors.pdf

The fluorescent tube covers work well. I came up with a combination of T12 and T8 sizes to create a snug fit in 6" duct. They are easy to cut and punch holes in to be able to fasten them together.

jgt1942
The lift mechanism to raise the trash can is a set of ramps that are pulled under a set of rollers attached to the base that the trash can sits on. The ramps are moved using all thread rod with  coupler nut attached to one end. I use a cordless drill with a socket adapter to drive the rod when I need to lower/raise the trash can. The left mechanism works well and is easy to use. It is capable of providing plenty of upward pressure to seal the can to the weather stripping on the under side of separator. The details of the lift are shown below. If you have any further questions on the lift let me know.

Yes, it is possible that if the trash can fills up that a large amount of saw dust would end up in the filter. I typically empty the can when it is about half full so have not had a problem. The lift mechanism makes it easy to lower the can to check the level.

This is a 2 HP Grizzly flipped and using the Grizzly collector ring as the separator. The inlet to the separator is 5" and all duct out to the tools are 5" with any reduction done after the blast gate. The inlet to the blower is 6" and outlet to the filter is 5". More details are on my post located here http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=1054.0.

The lifting mechanism works very well. I have a socket adapter that I put in the cordless drill which is used to raise or lower the trash can. It is very smooth and capable of exerting more than enough pressure to form an air-tight seal against the trash can and the weather stripping.
There are only two layers on top. The filler ring fits into the large hole in the top plate and the top cover sits on the top plate and the filler ring. This idea came from retired2 (http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=563.0). I did this so I could adjust the position of the baffle in respect to the inlet. I knew I was going to have the inlet coming in at an angle but was not sure of the exact position until I had the DC in place. The design allowed me to rotate the collector ring to line up the inlet and then be able to rotate the baffle to align the drop slot with the inlet. Hope this helps along with the picture.

Attachment is now available.

I am using a Griz 2 HP DC and reconfigured it with a Thien baffle. It works great. Take a look at my posting if you are looking for build ideas.

http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=1054.0

The attachment is fairly detailed on the build.

I decided about a year ago it was time to make an improvement over the shop vac for dust collection. I came across Phil's site (thanks to Phil for his work and maintaining the site) and found a wealth of information (thanks to all that have posted their work). I have adapted a number of the ideas I found here and on a few other sites to build the separator. It is based on a 2 HP DC (rated at 1550 CFM @ 11" SP, 12-3/4" blower; FWIW) that has been reconfigured to use the collector ring as the separator. The duct work is a 5" from the blast gates to the separator. The exhaust goes to a pleated filter (rated at MERV 15, 0.5 micron). The frame for the unit measures 43" x 24" x 80".
While I have not done all of the testing that retired2 and others have done I believe the separator is working quite well. I have run the unit without the exhaust duct in place and dumped large amounts of fines into the table saw connection and did not see any visible dust coming out the exhaust (tried the lights off with a flashlight trick, not the most scientific). I think it is capturing almost everything with possibly some of the super fines getting to the filter. A 1/8" piece of 1x4 was sucked in at the table saw and was carried up the 8' of duct to the ceiling and across to the separator and was deposited in the trash can so it seems to have sufficient air flow. I will be testing it with the router soon so will see how it performs with it.