J. Phil Thien's Projects

where did u put the foam tape. on the bottom of bigger lid or the edge of smaller lid. did u add any staples or nails since the adhesive dont stick to good to wood   :-\ .

what have you found to b the best material to use to seal the top to the can. would it b better to do it on the bottom of the top piece or on the edge of the smaller top pcs. i was thinking about a piece of surgical tubing maybe in the corner (make a rabbit or dado) between the two pcs of ply or make the top just a wee bit bigger and going around the outside of can with some tubing and a staple gun.

i would say since what you have i would try to keep the pipes as short as possible and just move it from machine to machine. if u have the space and $$$  i would up grade to a dc and run pipes. from what ive read and understand this separator should improve the filter cleaning quite a bit. bottom line is its 4ur health and clean up. i in the process of a revamp for my dc so i yet to try out this separator but im looking forward to making some chips soon soon since rt now my shop looks like Beirut. HTH dave

i cu posted some new pic and i was wondering. when u made the separator how far did u mount it below the intake tube.  i was wondering how big the ctr hole is in your jet i have a delta 50-850 that im in the process of  a revamp 4mine and which filter did u get (35a) and did u have to make a mounting plate if could u post a pic of unit. where do u get your bag from (penn st. ,amazon, ????)

i saw that in a post back in the early JAN. a guy (gldnbrew) modified  his jet dc with your separator. what i want to know would that be piratical along with using a can system using 6" connectors. the more i read in bill's site i might have done the wrong thing by removing that 4" restriction plate but i will be able to replace it if i draw to many amps (so we'll c). so if i were to place one of your separators in the DC itself as that other guy did would i need to go with a filter or would the 1 micron bag still be ok or would it restrict airflow to much, which i think would allow more dust to drop out of the air and still cause enough back pressure so i could run this without that plate. dave

yep i just drilled through spot weld with the mini screw that is a self tapper then i got lucky on 4 of the holes and the other 2 i had to pop with a screwdriver and a BFH  ;D. now i have to find out which is better the big plastic can or the 30 gal trash can ??? ??? ???. oh when i opened the housing there was buildup on the impeller so i also cleaned that up so now i should get max sucking when this is all over and done with. dave

its no problem to remove the 6 spot weld that hold that 4" ring in place and if there was going to b a resale i could just use a few sheet metal screws to reattach the plate.
so what i would do is screw the plate to the hub first and then work on removing the spot welds since the weld are on the outside of the 6" hub where the double 4" wye was attached i should be able to use some minnies (metal stud screws) and should have no problem with screws hitting the impeller since that area is raised up already to allow screw clearance for the 4" wye screws.
   if i were to go with a bigger can such as that white can i have would it be better than my 30 gal metal can. i can ground the trash can but i dont think i can really ground the plastic can plus the plastic can is bigger in the middle and smaller on the ends. dave

lets try this

now im really screwed up.   i took pic of the hub which has a removable double 4" Wye which goes to a 6" flange x 1.3125 but in the middle of that flange there is a 4" hole (DAh go figure dumb engineers ) but it is only spot welded on in 6 places so the whole assy would need to b removed to get rid of welds and cause no leaks. i tried to post pics but the file was to big. how do i resize my files so i can do a show and tell >:(

i want to build one of the baffles in a can to work with my delta 50-850
but i also want to replace all my 4" pvc duct with 6" sch20 pvc as close to the machine as i can get and then run 4" to the tool. i cant find an adapter to replace the 2 4"y's at the housing on the DC. is there such a beast or do i need to make one. if i were to use a large white plastic drum (maybe 55 gal.) with 6" going in on the side of can and 6" coming out from the ctr of lid, do i still keep the 1.125 gap between the can and baffle or do i need to change the size and make it a little wider. i still have my metal trash can that i was using with a woodstock lid (which is a joke) or should i make a lid with 6" holes and use the trash can (which is kinda on the small size). since there is lots of snow on the ground rt now would be the best time to redo the shop so i can enjoy it in the summer.