silly questions

[fussy]

Phil,

I built a Thien Separator for my HF 2hp dc with a Wyyn filter and it seems to be working fine.  However, with a housefull of furniture to build the plastic collection bag will fill quickly and they're a bear to put on.  I intend next to get the blower up, mount it straight into the collector ring and mount a trash can beneath the blower with a second (or first in line) separator to get most of the  junk before it gets to the plastic bag. So, my questions are:

1.  Will 2 separators negatively affect what is pretty good collection?  I go only tool to tool with 10' of 4" flex hose as I have neither room to assign fixed positions for each tool, nor money to build an elaborate ductwork system.

2.  Going tool-to-tool as I do, is 4" ok or should I make a new inlet cover for the dc to allow for 6" hose?

3.  If I go to 6", keeping in mind that I hook only one tool up at a time, would my puny 10" impeller be sufficient, or should I get a Grizzly 12" (about $80 I'd rather not spend) that is a bolt-on replacement.

Thanks,

Steve

[phil (admin)]

(1) The second collector will put an additional hit on CFM.  No free lunch.  But many (most) are willing to put up w/ that for the convenience.

(2) 6" is better than 4", it all depends on how much work you're willing to do, and whether your machines can be easily modified to handle a 6" connection.

(3) The 12" would certainly be superior, but at some point you have to concern yourself with current draw on your motor.  Adding a pre-separator will reduce CFM (and therefor current draw).  Going from 4" to 6" hose will INCREASE your CFM (and therefor current draw).  Adding a larger impeller will INCREASE your CFM (and current draw).

If you increase your CFM too much, and run your motor beyond its rating, it won't last long.

I'd do #1 first.  Then #2.  Then I'd check current draw, and if I am substantially lower than the motor's rating, I'd entertain the notion of #3.

[dbhost]

Fussy,

Do you have a part # for the Grizzly 12" impeller? I only see 12 -3/4" impellers listed...

[fussy]

DB,

Sorry, my friend.  It is 12 3/4", but I don't think 3/4" will make a lot of difference.  The blower housing, if memory serves, is about 14" in diameter.  The big concern, as Phil says, is will the motor handle it?  I think I'm going to shoot for #1 then #2 and call it a day.  Going one tool at a time should give me plenty of headroom even with the hit I'll take on cfm, and then if my impeller can't handle the 6" tubing, I can always go back to 4".

I want to thank you, Phil, for your willingness to share your work.  I hope you get seriously rich from this.  And DB, thankyou for your help to all.  You are both a blessing to a guy with only one lung.

Steve

[dbhost]

Thanks for the kind words...

Phil,

Do you have any clue how to test amperage draw of a running machine? My experience has always been DC circuits, this whole AC thing confuses me...

Anyway, I am assuming a clamp on inductive ammeter over the power cord would work. But that might not be a good assumption...

[Benroy]

To test the amp draw of a motor you need a tool called a amprobe just clamp it arond one lead of the motor wile the motor is runing

I used to repar electric motors so if you have any qustons i will be glad to help
Duane

[fussy]

Duane,

Would the Harbor Fright-uh, Freight- 95652 clamp-on multimeter work?  I can get one tomorrow for $16.00.  If not I'll have to spend $40.00 Monday.  Either way, I'm going to do this right.

Thanks,
Steve

[phil (admin)]

Do you have any clue how to test amperage draw of a running machine? My experience has always been DC circuits, this whole AC thing confuses me...

I have a cheap clamp-on meter, and I also have the plug-through digital on that Loring at bt3central suggested.  The #'s on the two closely match, and I think the clamp-on is more flexible because you can use it for 220-volt.

[Benroy]

Yes a cheep clamp on will work and it will give you a good idea of how much curent you are using. You will need to open the J-box on the motor and put the meter on just one of the lead's thay should be marked L1 or L2 not on the cord this will give you the best reading.

On start up for 3 or 4 seconds the motor will pull it's full amp rating marked FLA on the name plate and then go down to about half and thats were it should run. A larger impeler will increse the amp draw but it will also decrese the horse power

Hope this helps
Duane

[fussy]

Duane,

Thanks for the help.  I'll get to HF this coming week.  When I get an idea of what the motor pulls, I'll post it--if I don't fry myself.  Do you still rebuild motors?  I have a 38 year old Craftsman 9" bench that still runs fine, but I'd hate to loose it someday.

Steve

[dbhost]

FWIW, I am watching this thread with interest. My HF DC works fine, but if there is a cheap way to make it work better, then why not?