J. Phil Thien's Projects

Quote from: DonJ on February 08, 2012, 06:07:32 PM
Raymond
Checkout this post where comments on this distance.
http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=610.0

Thank you DonJ for pursuing and posting the correct info on distance. I apologize for my hasty and mis-informed post; i.e. point #2. I edited my original post, thanks to you.

Wish I could be of more help.

Thanks,
Gale

Hi DonJ, Nice photos.They really compliment your explanation of your situation. I'll try to share my observations and opinions.



• Looks as though the remaining dust is real fine as if from sanding. I have read where sanding dust is a common challenge for most of us.
• Have also read that the exhaust outlet is supposed to enter into the separation chamber at half the height of the chamber. Yours appears to be about a third  of the height.
• Also, whenever I empty my collection container, there is a bit of residue inside the separator but appears to wind up in the container  eventually and not in the bag.
• On my system; the residue comes from router, table saw and planer. For every 30 gallons of collection I get less than 1/2 cup in the bag.

Hope these observations help.

Regards,
Gale

EDIT: Was talking out my hind end on info in point #2. I apologize for any confusion. I thank DonJ for confirming the correct info which is entry distance = 1/2 the diameter of that pipe.

Quote from: RonS on January 26, 2012, 08:07:14 PM
Doug
Here is an artical from Fine Woodworking Mag that has some very good Ideas on how to improve the dust collection from Table Saws. 

Ron

Ron, I am very appreciative of you posting and sharing this pdf article!

Thank You,
Gale

Quote from: Peter on January 21, 2012, 12:23:30 PM
I haven't found anything that says "the HF 2 HP DC can suck workshop dust through A-diameter pipes of L-length with F-number of fittings".
Thanks for your patience.
Peter

I could be totally wrong here so please forgive me if I've missed something along the way but I don't remember reading about anyone having that information when they built their system. Most builds that I've read about have built a DC system using the available information and trying to apply it to their situation and do the best they can. And a lot of good folk try to share improvements and enhancements that they feel might help someone else. If you were to copy someone's system as in the same diameter pipe, same lengths and same fittings, would that be the system that would work for you? I know when I built my system I had to make some choices. Were they good choices? I dunno, it works.

Best,
Gale

Quote from: Dougp28704 on January 17, 2012, 03:43:10 PM
Thanks for the input everyone. I was so discouraged before the replies. Bulldog, I plan to use DC for Table saw, Jointer, and Planner. Band saw if/when I get one. One machine at a time.

So, everyone pretty much feels the top hat is better than what I call the original with the elbow at the in-let? I have seen many pictures of the new design, but not enough to figure out how to make one. I'm not looking for dimensions, just how it goes together. I know there are many variations. I'm just trying to find simple sketch or something.

I have dreamed about setting up a shop since I was in High School wood shop. Now I'm 43. Over the years I have been buying tools. Have not really made anything yet.

Thank you

Here are links to the two "how to" builds that finally got me building one.

http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=429.0
http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=431.0

There are other good threads too. These two just happen to be the ones that made it happen for me. Good reading!

Best,
Gale

Quote from: Bulldog8 on January 16, 2012, 03:49:44 AM
You didn't say what machines you wanted to collect dust from, but if you want to collect from a tablesaw, bandsaw, jointer, planer and other large tools the true DC and baffle is the way to go. Choosing a tophat or a internal baffle would be a choice based upon your preference, space requirements/limitations and whether or not you want to mess with emptying the bag.

On the other hand if you are only collecting dust from hand held tools like sanders, routers and the like, I would choose a shopvac and a 5 gallon separator.

The high CFM of a DC provides the amount of air movement to correctly collect dust from the large chambers of the tablesaw, planer and other large tools. A Shop Vac has a high static pressure (how hard it sucks) but a lower CFM in comparison. The Shop Vac does a great job of collecting from small tools or areas. I use both in my shop and couldn't really imagine one replacing the other.

Steve

+1

Additionally, I have a HF DC system with a Thien TopHat and 4" piping. I also use it on one operating machine at a time.

• Does it operate satisfactorily and meet my needs? -Yes
  
• Could I improve it's performance with further improvements? -Yes, I'm sure I could.
• Is the Thien separator  the best part of my DC system? -I think so IMO.

The point being, I think you could proceed with your initial plan and be very impressed. If your budget and time schedule allow, make all the improvements you can.

Best,
Gale

I have no experience with the internal baffle but it sure looks like it will work well.

You must have thick skin to woodwork outside in Minnesota  ;) , ouch!

Thanks Raymond for posting all the photos and detailed info. Good stuff! I really like that link that Ron posted! That's the same Wynn filter I have and that project looks totally doable. Thanks, Ron. I'm thinking back and forth now on doing either the flapper mod or just putting an HF filter bag back on it. It does reside outside so to speak. I haven't taken the filter off for a few months but I do go out and slap it around a bit and use the air compressor on it once in a while. I get no noticeable debris falling into the clear bag below so I guess my paranoia about it stems from the possibility of moisture, from being in a unheated space, causing it to cake up in the filter. No noticeable decrease in performance. If it is caking up, my thought was I could at least beat the crap out of the bag if needed. Too cold out there to find out for sure so will wait till it's warmer to jerk the filter for inspection.
   Now, on to your sanding dust situation: I don't do much sanding, not like some of the wood fabricators on here. When I do sand projects I don't use the DC system. I mainly use my ol' trusty dusty Doyle Vac-It that I picked up from an Upholstery Shop going out of business back in'78. It has served my needs well over the years. Included some pics. No filter to clog. The super fines appear to go in the bag (heavy duty bag) and most goes in the canister. I highly suggest anyone picking one of these up if ever available, quite the work horse. Having said all that, my DC system contains the debris from 3 machines; planer, table saw and the cnc router. I don't feel I have a sanding dust situation but if I did, I would venture to investigate the idea of pre-containment at the sander such as RonS's  suggestion to Steve Sawyer in this thread http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=635.msg3651#msg3651.

Thanks again for the quick reply and detailed info on the flappers.

Gale

Sorry to hear about your post surgery issues. Very glad that it is now getting better. Appreciate the info and hands on review of the flappers  ;D. Will check back tonite or tomorrow for pix.

Thanks so much, Raymond!
Gale

Quote from: RonS on January 05, 2012, 10:45:30 PM
Here are instructions for making a round to rectangular Duct Evolution.
I downloaded these instructions from the following Web Site:

http://joe.emenaker.com/DuctEvolution/index.html

I used joe's EXCEL and PDF instructions to create a drawing file using "DoubleCAD XT" which is a very good and free drafting package from this Web Site.

http://www.doublecad.com/ 

The drawing file is attached below.

The first image is showing the full scale print out of the drawing taped to a 12" X 24" X 24Gauge sheetmetal I used the full 12" height to capture a 2" section of round & Rectangular overlay outside of the fold requirements.



The second Image shows the sheetmetal being marked as the paper is cut away at the cut lines. The fold lines are marked at the ends and scaled later with a steel rule & knife.



The third Image shows the sheetmetal marked complete.



The forth Image shows sheetmetal cutout and ready to bend. I used 2 pieces of angle iron clamped to the bench to do the bending. The bottom section is the 2" Rectangular portion and the top section past the bend marks are for attaching the round inlet port with a finshed edge.



I got carried away during the bending and assembly process and forgot to take any pictures. The bending is an easy process since you only need to make very small 15 deg. bends. I used a "hook" joint and a 5" round insert too attach the transition together at the seam, then I hammered the seam closed and filled it with solder. The rectangular end I just rivited (Hammer & anvel not pop rivits) the ends together. I then attached (rivits) a 5" finished section from a 4" to 5" transition then taped up all the rivited joints.

The following pictures are the finished product and how it inserted into the tophat. I was lucky to get a press fit, when I installed the top the Evolution can't be removed.







I haven't used the tophat yet since I am still working on my duct work. I will post some more pictures on my top hat build and what I am doing with my duct work and 50-760 DC.

I ordered my duct work parts from KenCraft.com on Jan 4 and They shipped it Today 1/5. Good service...

Here is the DoubleCAD XT file:

ftp://

Ron

Ron,
Nice job, nice photos, excellent execution. Thanks for sharing  8).

Gale

Hi Raymond, I hope your busy making projects and benefiting from your new DC arrangement  ;D. I'm curious how things worked out for you.
Also, the idea of a DIY filter cleaner, as you mentioned in your post is getting higher on my 'to do' list. Would like to know your thoughts on the advantage of spinning that crank vs blowing one out w/air. That's my current option and kind of a PITA with the system being outside and all. I understood yours to be designed in to the unit and not a DIY. Just curious if its function warrants it being there.

Thanks for your time on this!
Gale

 8) Cool idea! I like the sound of that.

Gale

Now here's a crazy thought  ;D. Could you put a leaf shredder/blower after the planer to shred the "feathers" before they go into the DC line?

Interesting take on the baffle design! I don't remember noticing that when reading your thread a while back.
Pretty cool  8)!

Gale

Really explained that well. Bulldog!  ;) Perfect!