This is an idea for a way to make a slightly modified version of retired2's top hat build so that spacers can be added under the inlet rectangle to make it into a double height (2H) version, or more, or anything in between. The only functional difference is that the baffle is a ¼" below the bottom of the inlet rectangle in the 1H situation. It also allows easy access to the baffle if you want to play with it. I have not tried to make one of these as I work mostly with hand tools these days but I have no reason to believe it will not work. I have included an improved taper lead in to the bin seal as retired2 has mentioned he would change. The top end of the threaded steel rod can take the springs that retired2 mentions. His build is here:
http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=563.msg3024#msg3024
This proposed build is exactly the same except:
1. The outside diameter of the plates and rings is increased to 22 ¼"
2. Make two "bottom plates" one in 1" MDF and the other in ¼" MDF.
3. On the underside of the 1" plate route the groove to take the bin seal. Route the outside wall of this groove at a 45 degree angle to help guide the bin into place. Round over the inside bottom edge of this groove with a ¼" radius cutter as there is not enough meat there to use a 45 degree chamfer on this vulnerable inside edge. This is the bottom plate.
4. Glue the baffle to the top of the bottom plate.
5. The ¼" plate is exactly the same as the bottom plate but without a bin seal on the underside. It forms the bottom of the chamber directly under the retaining ring in place of the bottom plate as in retired2's build. Let's call this the chamber bottom.
6. The spacers are stacked up between the bottom plate and the chamber bottom.
7. Make spacers of any thickness and in any quantity you want. They are exactly as the bottom plate but without the bin seal.
8. Use the vertical spacer ribs and the threaded steel rod, nuts and washers.
9. To make the chamber walls use polycarbonate sheet (Lexan, Makrolon) instead of acrylic (Perspex, Lucite, Plexiglass) because acrylic is notoriously brittle. Thin galvanised steel can also be used.
Please feel free to comment or propose changes or better still a wholly different solution.
Here is a sketch with apologies to retired2 whose copyright I have infringed:
http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=563.msg3024#msg3024
This proposed build is exactly the same except:
1. The outside diameter of the plates and rings is increased to 22 ¼"
2. Make two "bottom plates" one in 1" MDF and the other in ¼" MDF.
3. On the underside of the 1" plate route the groove to take the bin seal. Route the outside wall of this groove at a 45 degree angle to help guide the bin into place. Round over the inside bottom edge of this groove with a ¼" radius cutter as there is not enough meat there to use a 45 degree chamfer on this vulnerable inside edge. This is the bottom plate.
4. Glue the baffle to the top of the bottom plate.
5. The ¼" plate is exactly the same as the bottom plate but without a bin seal on the underside. It forms the bottom of the chamber directly under the retaining ring in place of the bottom plate as in retired2's build. Let's call this the chamber bottom.
6. The spacers are stacked up between the bottom plate and the chamber bottom.
7. Make spacers of any thickness and in any quantity you want. They are exactly as the bottom plate but without the bin seal.
8. Use the vertical spacer ribs and the threaded steel rod, nuts and washers.
9. To make the chamber walls use polycarbonate sheet (Lexan, Makrolon) instead of acrylic (Perspex, Lucite, Plexiglass) because acrylic is notoriously brittle. Thin galvanised steel can also be used.
Please feel free to comment or propose changes or better still a wholly different solution.
Here is a sketch with apologies to retired2 whose copyright I have infringed: