News:

SMF - Just Installed!

Main Menu

Modifying Jet DC1200

Started by JohnH, December 10, 2014, 09:36:34 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

JohnH

It's a 32 gallon.  I added a of support pieces inside at the mid-top lip of the can and still crushed it.

retired2

Quote from: JohnH on February 07, 2015, 06:30:56 AM
It's a 32 gallon.  I added a of support pieces inside at the mid-top lip of the can and still crushed it.

What is the SP rating if your Jet?  I am very surprised that you are collapsing your drum.  The Brute is probably the most used drum for the systems built here and I almost never hear of people collapsing them. 

JohnH

It's a 2 hp 230 volt rated at 11.5 inches of static, but as you can see I've modified the inlet a bit.

I was planing some maple today and with one 4 inch connected to the planer and another 4 inch 1/3 open I still crushed the Brute. 

This is downright annoying.  I guess because I've crushed it a few times it now has the propensity to do it with less vacuum.  My next idea is to look at a metal can before I considering internal braces throughout the can.

Mainebarn

I think I can alleviate your frustration and fix your bucket crushing problem.  I'd be willing to trade my 1 hp for your 2 hp DC.  ;D

retired2

Quote from: JohnH on February 07, 2015, 05:40:25 PM
It's a 2 hp 230 volt rated at 11.5 inches of static, but as you can see I've modified the inlet a bit.

I was planing some maple today and with one 4 inch connected to the planer and another 4 inch 1/3 open I still crushed the Brute. 

This is downright annoying.  I guess because I've crushed it a few times it now has the propensity to do it with less vacuum.  My next idea is to look at a metal can before I considering internal braces throughout the can.

I've dead-headed my system several times, intentionally and unintentionally, but never collapsed anything.  However, I know I'm not pulling 11.5 inches of water.   

Obviously, opening extra lines to keep from collapsing the drum is not a good solution.  If you have to do that you are giving up the "cleaning power" at the tool you are using, and you would be just as well off with a 600 CFM DC.

I keep looking at your drum setup and wondering how much that is contributing to the problem.  Is your drum suspended slightly?  Your filter box sits on legs, so I assume it does not move.  That suggests you are pulling the drum up to the seal with the toggle clamps.  When it is pulled up, do you put anything under the drum to support it?

If your drum is suspended unsupported, that has lots of problems.  First, the collar on the drum isn't strong enough to support the drum when it gets some weight in it.  Secondly, pulling up on the outside lip of the collar will cause it to want to roll inward.  That could cause leaks and put inward  pressure on the sidewalls, contributing to the collapsing problem

Also, if the drum is not fully supported under its botton, it will oil-can when it gets some weight in it, and when it does that will cause the sides to pull in.  A drum that is pushed up against the top seal from its bottom will be stiffer than one that is pulled up from the top.

If you have collapsed it badly several times, you may have permanently weakened the drum, but I'd try wedging it up against the seal from its bottom.  Put a sheet of plywood under the drum then tap some wedges under the plywood to push it up evenly and tightly against the seal.  If it still collapses, use it for trash, and buy a metal one.  When you shop for a metal one, make sure you get one with corrugated walls or it will collapse as easily as the Brute.  And it is possibly it may still collapse - it wouldn't be the first!


JohnH

Good ideas.  The drum is suspended.  I've not been able to get much in it yet, so weight's not a problem but wedging it seems like it could help.

dabullseye

#21
you might look at this post  i made one when i had a cheep can but i switched to a brute and removed the valve when i redid the pipes.
http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=198.15

retired2

Quote from: dabullseye on February 08, 2015, 06:37:56 AM
you might look at this post  i made one when i had a cheep can but i switched to a brute and removed the valve when i redid the pipes.
http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=198.15

My view of the vacuum relief devices is they are good for protecting your plumbing from an accidental dead-heading with an over-powered DC.  But in the OP's case, he is collapsing his drum under very normal operating conditions, in fact, I'd say he is collapsing his drum with less vaccum that normal. 

Something is dreadfully wrong when you collapse a drum with a 4" line open and a second one partially open!  If you set up a vacuum relief device to protect against that situation, you will be tripping the vacuum breaker routinely and never getting the SP and CFM's you should have to effectively collect the dust. 

JohnH

I've moved on to the metal can.  So far so good.  I have thought about a trap door style relief valve to protect my filter box.  When I did the math it's like 250 lbs on the outside of the top.

I'll post a few more pics