Recent Posts

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Thien Cyclone Separator Lid Discussion / Re: Introduce yourself...
« Last post by AndySH on December 10, 2017, 11:54:47 AM »
Hi Andy here from the UK.

been watching many YT video on the Thien baffle its great to have found the creator, Great work Phil
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Hello All

I have been watching the "Thien" dust separator videos on Youtube and did not know why they where call so, well now i do.  Many Thanks to Phil for is design.

Before i found this group I designed my own Thien based separator, without knowing much about Phils design.

My idea, not built yet, just in the design stage, is a 400mm dia at the base of the cone x 300mm high cyclone with a Thien baffle.

I have made the Thien baffle a separate part so that i can just screw a new design on to the bottom of the cyclone. i will try different width gaps.  I know in the photo the baffle is not rotated corectly

The unit will be powered by a CAMVAC twin motor unit  not your normal chip extractor.   I currently have a small self made cyclone but it does not work that well, though that may be due to the fine dust, which is just like FLOUR.



I only cut fiberglass and carbon fiber so no CHIPS for me, just fine dust.

I like the camvac as it can be exhausted to outside with extension tubes.

At the moment the sides are at 11 degrees to try and help the FINE dust fall in to the bin below, not shown.

I selected 11 degree as i think most cyclones use this figure.


The cone will be made, well the first one, out of hardboard, with the smooth side inwards.


The top will have a complete circle of plexie glass inside so i can see what is going on.

The cone can be just cut from a 1220 x 1220 x 3mm sheet, that was part of the design

If it works well, once built i may change the cone to clear plexi glass

Both the inlet and out lets are 110mm OD

Also i know that the inlet ppe requires to be flushed back on to the side walls, just cound not find a way to do it in software.

My THREE main questions:-


1. Has anybody got any experience with angled sides?

2. And does the height of the unit have much effect?

3. Does a rectangular in port which goes from top to bottom work better than a round input pipe


I would welcome any comments upon my idea

Thanks

Andy


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Thanks for the compliment, "militarybrat".  I don't know if you noticed reply 18 from TX-Lenador.  There is a PDF file at the bottom of that post that contains his schematic for turning on the separator and also opening the blast gate.  I'm not sure if he ever built it or not, so it might not be tested.
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Thanks retired 2 ya got my brain working. Gonna draw up some control wiring for shop dust collector. Gonna use electric solinoid to open blast gates one for each gate (default closed). Turn machine on blast gate opens DC starts life is good all easy analog controls. Thinking 24 volt ac for coils in relays that way no voltage wire like cat 5 can be run.120volt to 24 volt ac transformer is a door bell transformer. A single 120 v circuit for selonoids controlled by relays Square D 6 pin ice cube relays. Nice task for me right now.
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Well guys I am a master electrician nice work retired 2. I do mine old school I use a magnetic motor starter with 120 volt coil. Control wiring all machines to their start button. Turn machine on dust collector comes on off is off. My machines are all single phase either 120 or 220. I built lots of control panels and fixed them what i found is to keep it simple stupid. Simple motor starter with simple wiring works best over the long haul by eliminating any electronics and maintenence is  minimal. Don't forget to add single pole switch for turning dust collector on without other machines starting.

There is single phase 120/ 220 that are commonly called A and B phase (even# breakers and odd # breakers) all A phase will NOT short to other A phase breakers same with B phase.

3 phase is A B C same rules apply.
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Thien Cyclone Separator Lid Discussion / Re: Trash Can Topper Project with 6" Ports
« Last post by chrism3 on December 02, 2017, 05:31:43 AM »
I hadn't found the private message feature - I have now. Thanks for your answers.
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Thien Cyclone Separator Lid Discussion / Re: Trash Can Topper Project with 6" Ports
« Last post by retired2 on December 02, 2017, 03:56:25 AM »
I realise that this is an old thread, but I couldn't find the orginator's email address to ask him privately.  I wonder if I can ask a couple of questions:
1. for vawoodworker84, in your first build photo there look like screws coming through the top and bottom of the hat, in between each side panel. Are these to guide the flexible wall when it goes in? i.e. to stop the wall from going into the angles between the side panels?
2. For anyone: the baffle on this build is said to be 1 inch. I thought I saw somewhere that it should be about 1/8 inch?? Or is that only necessary in the original Phil design?

The OP was active as recent as the end of Sept.  Were you not able to send a private message using forum software?

1) I don't see any reason for the screws.  The flexible wall is shaped and retained by the top and bottom plate so it does not appear the screws are doing anything, including aiding the assembly.

2) A thinner baffle plate is better.  If all you are separating is saw dust and fines, it might not make any difference, but if you are separating shavings from a jointer or planer it is much easier to have the stringy stuff hang up and cause a blockage.  I have a 1/4" baffle plate and I sent some wet planer shavings into the separator.  The end of the drop slot would catch the long shavings and in no time the separator was completely blocked and filled with shavings.  The process would repeat as soon as I cleaned out the mess.  Since the end of the drop slot is very prone to catching shavings, it should be thing, nicely rounded and smooth so there are not corners or edges for things to snag onto.
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Thien Cyclone Separator Lid Discussion / Re: Trash Can Topper Project with 6" Ports
« Last post by chrism3 on December 01, 2017, 11:35:36 PM »
I realise that this is an old thread, but I couldn't find the orginator's email address to ask him privately.  I wonder if I can ask a couple of questions:
1. for vawoodworker84, in your first build photo there look like screws coming through the top and bottom of the hat, in between each side panel. Are these to guide the flexible wall when it goes in? i.e. to stop the wall from going into the angles between the side panels?
2. For anyone: the baffle on this build is said to be 1 inch. I thought I saw somewhere that it should be about 1/8 inch?? Or is that only necessary in the original Phil design?
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Team work. Comments welcome.

Let me revive this topic.
As said long time ago, I am using Thien baffle between 5 gallon bucket and shopvac's bucket. Small Thien on left not used.
My problem is ultrafine dust as it cloggs vac's textile filters. Have to clean them on weekly basis - annoying.

Idea in works: install another baffle within shopvac's bucket. This time Thien buffles would have approx 70mm (2,7 in) in diameter, there would be 5 of them. For the beginning made of CNC cut styrofoam.

Idea:
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Here is my version of retired2's ingenious box with only a few minor modifications.  This was an enjoyable build and best of all, it works like a charm.  Note: Even though I used blue insulated spade terminals, the wires (other than the input to the dry switch) are all 12 gauge - solid to the outlet and stranded elsewhere.  Please reply with any observations or critiques.  Thanks.

Nice job Walter.  It looks remarkably familiar!

I assure you it will outlast 10 Long Rangers!
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