Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10
1
Thien Cyclone Separator Lid Discussion / Harbor Freight Dust Collector upgrades
« Last post by retired5 on February 21, 2018, 03:10:54 PM »
I just now ordered my Rikon impeller for my HF collector. Today is Feb. 21 2018.
Everyone will be thrilled to know, this item is on back order and is not expected to arrive at Rikon until June of 2018 (this year)!!
At least the Wynn filter arrived today.
Am now in the Wait mode. lol
2
Thien Cyclone Separator Lid Discussion / Re: Here's the plans.
« Last post by Schreck on February 20, 2018, 05:51:50 PM »
These systems always run by applying a vacuum. Can anyone tell me if the reverse is applicable?
Can you run the powered exhaust from a DeWalt 735 thickness planer into this system?  With, or without using something like an enhanced Harbor Freight collector?
Yes!
Use the Search function and you will find at least one system for the Dewalt planer that does not use an external blower - just the planer's internal blower. Here is a good one:
http://www.jpthien.com/smf/index.php?topic=809.msg4539#msg4539
3
Your outlet neck is pretty long so it might need some stabilization, but I can't recall anyone mentioning vibration of the outlet.  The turbulance and noise I was getting until I added the air straighteners was coming from the blower housing.  I'm sure it was the effect of the turbulent air on the blades of the impeller.  I never noticed any vibration or noise from the outlet pipe, but mine is very short compared to yours.  And mine is connected to the blower with a few inches of flex hose, so that should isolate the blower from the separator from the blower or vica versa.

It's possible that your stiffener could act on the spinning air and cause some turbulance that would not be beneficial.  I think I would try to avoid it, but build your separator in a way that allows you to add it later if needed.  Another potential problem is long shavings getting hung up on the stiffener.  My outlet neck has a pretty good layer of fines stuck to it from use over time, so waste does get attached to even a smooth pipe.


Good points, thanks!

At this time, I plan to have my separator connected with hard pipe, not flex hose.  I don't have any 6" flex, and it doesn't seem feasible to buy some just for a few inches for this connection.  I plan to have slots for the motor housing attachment to the frame that the system will be mounted on.

This will allow for height adjustment of the outlet pipe in the separator and also for disassembly for any needed maintenance or upgrades, such as possibly upgrading the impeller to the rokon 60-200 that many have done to the HF units like I have.

I will build it without that stabilizers to begin with and see how it runs.   I think one thing that might help mine is that the spin in both the impeller and the separator are both in the same direction.

Regardless of matching air rotation, you should still use an air straightener.  Spinning air entering the blower reduces fan efficiency, and strangely, air that is spinning in the same direction reduces air flow more than when it is opposing. 

Schreck, good questions.  I've often wondered whether the positioning of a baffle makes any difference in a 2X separator.  After I added the bell mouth to my separator I became more aware of the waste stream circling in somewhat of a sine wave pattern.  I'm not sure why, but that would suggest that the position of the slot is not all that important in a 2X build.  On the other hand I wouldn't want to chance randomly placing the slot in a 1X build. I think the closed area needs to be where the air enters the chamber, and Phil came up with that configuration after a lot of testing so I accept it as gospel.
4
Thien Cyclone Separator Lid Discussion / Re: Bellmouth Outlet on double height top-hat?
« Last post by Schreck on February 20, 2018, 01:02:18 PM »
I can't recall reading any discussion on the position of the drop slot in relation to the inlet on double-height separators. 

In single height separators, the slot begins 120 after the inlet and continues around until ending just before the inlet.  In a taller separator, the dust will drop to the level of the baffle and slot much later, after spinning around the perimeter of the separator some distance.  Should the position of the solid portion of the baffle be changed based on this? Does it matter where the slot begins in this case or is it enough that it is present to de-couple the air below the baffle from the air above the baffle?

I'm raising this question because your steel sides will not allow you to observe the separator in operation, and if it does matter, it would be good to be able to change the position of the baffle.
5
Thien Cyclone Separator Lid Discussion / Re: Here's the plans.
« Last post by WayTooLate on February 20, 2018, 09:14:02 AM »
Can this be scaled up to 48 inch diameter with a twenty inch inlet, and still work ok?
 
Dean -
I can't imagine why you haven't had many responses to your request!  ;)
If you browse through the posts about building a Separator, you will find that a 5hp system is huge among our builders.   :o
I have a very large one ahead of a 20hp bag house.  But it has a 14" duct and should have been scaled smaller to be more effective.  I can't calculate how much horsepower you would need to drive such an enormous air mass at a speed fast enough to create the centripedal force to pull clean air out without debris. 

If you have a system that is that big, I have two suggestions:  8) You need a professional engineer to get the benefit out of such a large system; Or, you need to make smaller subsystems closer to the source of your debris generation. 

Otherwise,  Good Luck!  :D
6
Thien Cyclone Separator Lid Discussion / Re: Bellmouth Outlet on double height top-hat?
« Last post by Alan H on February 19, 2018, 07:29:56 AM »
Your outlet neck is pretty long so it might need some stabilization, but I can't recall anyone mentioning vibration of the outlet.  The turbulance and noise I was getting until I added the air straighteners was coming from the blower housing.  I'm sure it was the effect of the turbulent air on the blades of the impeller.  I never noticed any vibration or noise from the outlet pipe, but mine is very short compared to yours.  And mine is connected to the blower with a few inches of flex hose, so that should isolate the blower from the separator from the blower or vica versa.

It's possible that your stiffener could act on the spinning air and cause some turbulance that would not be beneficial.  I think I would try to avoid it, but build your separator in a way that allows you to add it later if needed.  Another potential problem is long shavings getting hung up on the stiffener.  My outlet neck has a pretty good layer of fines stuck to it from use over time, so waste does get attached to even a smooth pipe.

Good points, thanks!

At this time, I plan to have my separator connected with hard pipe, not flex hose.  I don't have any 6" flex, and it doesn't seem feasible to buy some just for a few inches for this connection.  I plan to have slots for the motor housing attachment to the frame that the system will be mounted on.

This will allow for height adjustment of the outlet pipe in the separator and also for disassembly for any needed maintenance or upgrades, such as possibly upgrading the impeller to the rokon 60-200 that many have done to the HF units like I have.

I will build it without that stabilizers to begin with and see how it runs.   I think one thing that might help mine is that the spin in both the impeller and the separator are both in the same direction. 
7
Your outlet neck is pretty long so it might need some stabilization, but I can't recall anyone mentioning vibration of the outlet.  The turbulance and noise I was getting until I added the air straighteners was coming from the blower housing.  I'm sure it was the effect of the turbulent air on the blades of the impeller.  I never noticed any vibration or noise from the outlet pipe, but mine is very short compared to yours.  And mine is connected to the blower with a few inches of flex hose, so that should isolate the blower from the separator from the blower or vica versa.

It's possible that your stiffener could act on the spinning air and cause some turbulance that would not be beneficial.  I think I would try to avoid it, but build your separator in a way that allows you to add it later if needed.  Another potential problem is long shavings getting hung up on the stiffener.  My outlet neck has a pretty good layer of fines stuck to it from use over time, so waste does get attached to even a smooth pipe.
8
Just a reminder: Anyone can purchase the same model of remote control that you might be using.
Don't want your system to be turned on while you are not in the shop?
Simply power the remote receiver from your overhead light circuit. Then the system can only be turned on while you are present and have your light on.
I am using a remote purchased from the local ACE hardware store. It, in turn controls an external 3 pole relay that is heavy enough to handle the 5 Hp Neeson motor on my ClearVue cyclone with problems at all.
Both the relay and the remote receiver are mounted inside the power panel with all of the circuit breakers.

i thought about a wireless remote controlled system, but decided I didn't want one.  Remotes get misplaced, it's never where you want it, and it's a lump in your pocket that I don't like when I am working.  If you don't put it in your pocket then you need a place to lay it near each machine so you can grab it again to turn the tool off.  And now you've given me another reason not to want a wireless remote that I hadn't thought of. 

So, I'm very happy with my bell-wired micro switch system, it's cheap and trouble free.  By the way, I don't think any of the discussions in this thread are about a wireless remote start system.  They are all remote start, but with wired controls.

9
Just a reminder: Anyone can purchase the same model of remote control that you might be using.
Don't want your system to be turned on while you are not in the shop?
Simply power the remote receiver from your overhead light circuit. Then the system can only be turned on while you are present and have your light on.
I am using a remote purchased from the local ACE hardware store. It, in turn controls an external 3 pole relay that is heavy enough to handle the 5 Hp Neeson motor on my ClearVue cyclone with problems at all.
Both the relay and the remote receiver are mounted inside the power panel with all of the circuit breakers.
10
Thien Cyclone Separator Lid Discussion / Re: Here's the plans.
« Last post by retired5 on February 17, 2018, 06:53:36 PM »
These systems always run by applying a vacuum. Can anyone tell me if the reverse is applicable?
Can you run the powered exhaust from a DeWalt 735 thickness planer into this system?  With, or without using something like an enhanced Harbor Freight collector?
Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10